The first step in repairing any laptop or notebook is
troubleshooting the problem accurately. For example, some people will
run out and buy a new battery on the assumption it's failed when the
problem is a frayed wire or a bad connector on the power cord, something
that can be fixed with a little solder or electric tape. Likewise, a
"dead" LCD screen could be a mainboard or video adapter failure, a bad
inverter or a burnt out backlight. When the LCD itself needs replacing,
it will probably be due to a physical crack in the glass or blocks of
dead pixels. If your CD or DVD drive won't work anymore, make sure
you've tried a selection of discs and try a cleaner kit before replacing
the drive, and always double-check the connection before discarding the
old drive. About the only problems that will identify themselves as
imminent failures are increasingly loud hard drives or steadily
decreasing battery life over time.
| Power Failure
The troubleshooting process always starts with identifying
what works. If the problem is power related (whether battery or
a question of the laptop not turning on) the first step is
establishing that power is getting to the laptop. This means
checking that the LED on the transformer brick is lit, and if it
isn't (or doesn't have an LED), that it's plugged into a good
power outlet. You can check that by unplugging the transformer
and simply plugging in a lamp. Some of the oldest notebook
models have an internal transformer, so the line power (110 VAC
in the U.S., 220 most other places) goes directly into the
laptop body. The next question is whether or not any of the
little LED status lights on the laptop light up with the power
plugged in. Even the oldest models usually have a power good
status light. If you have positive power status and the notebook
simply won't turn on, the next check is the battery. Some models
of notebooks will not operate without a good battery installed,
but most will, so Google up your particular model with a search
like "operating without battery" and find out if your laptop
will operate with a dead or missing battery. If the battery
isn't an issue and the laptop still won't turn on one with the
power good status light lit, it could be a switch failure, but
it's more likely a power regulation or mainboard failure.
Troubleshooting power regulation or the motherboard requires
test equipment or spare board to swap out.
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There's very little difference between troubleshooting a Dell
Latitude, Toshiba Satellite, Sony Vaio, IBM Thinkpad, HP Pavilion (and
Compaq) or even an Apple Powerbook or iBook. The basic designs of all of
these laptops are the same, even if one model uses an Intel CPU, another
an AMD,a third a PowerPC and a fourth a low power Transmeta.
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Battery
life is special subset of power problems that has as much to
do with poor designs as actual component failure. The older NiCd
batteries were particularly susceptible to "memory" issues. If
not full discharged after every charging, the battery cells
begin to remember their previous charge level as a new maximum,
and some individual cells may even reverse polarity while the
batteries are being charged. Ni-MH (Nickel Metal Hydride
Battery) which replaced NiCd (Nickel Cadmium) for standard
models are somewhat better, but they can't fight poorly designed
charging circuitry or bad software controls. All laptop
batteries, whatever the shape, consist of a number of low
voltage cells connected in series to reach the required
operating voltages.
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It pays to go online and read the owners manual for battery health in
your particular laptop model if you didn't do so when you obtained it.
Some older notebooks require that you cycle the battery continually,
only working on AC power for as long as it takes to recharge the
exhausted battery. Many newer models want you to fully discharge the
battery around once a week, but otherwise don't care about leaving it
plugged in the rest of the time, and newest designs don't care what you
do as long as the laptop actually gets run on battery for a reasonable
percentage of the time. If you think your battery is running down too
fast, make sure you have enabled the aggressive power saving modes in
software (usually accessed through Control Panel or the manufacturers
icon) which dim the screen, slow the CPU, and let the hard drive spin
down when unused. Also, keep in mind that the level of estimated battery
life remaining that causes an onscreen alarm can be set by the user, and
if your default setting is very conservative (between 10% and 20%), you
may want to experiment with a lower level (between 3% and 5%) that will
still give you time to save your work and shut down before the laptop
goes into hibernation.
Video Failure
The first thing to check in cases of complete video failure is the
power status, as detailed above. If you can always hear your laptop fan
when you turn on the laptop and now you can't it's not a video failure,
it's a power or mainboard failure. The next troubleshooting step is to
connect an external monitor with a standard VGA connector, whether a CRT
or an LCD. If your notebook won't light up the external monitor, it's
extremely likely that either the motherboard or the internal video
adapter (if it's not part of the mainboard) has failed. If the video
adapter is a discrete component and you can find a replacement for under
$100, it might be worth gambling on replacing, but it's almost never
cost effective to replace a mainboard. There is a small chance that the
internal connection to the external video port has coincidentally failed
with the laptop's own video subsystem, but it's not all that likely.
| If the external monitor works fine, your failure is with the
laptops video subsystem, which is usually contained entirely in
the screen/lid assembly. There is a decent chance that one of
the cable bundles (video signal or power) that run through the
hinges to the video subsystem has failed, so unless the failure
is obvious (cracked screen, fading in a corner, faint image, bad
pixels), you should still open up the main body of the laptop as
well to visually inspect the connections. The easiest problem to
identify is obviously a cracked LCD, but a slowly increasing
number of dead spots or whole rows or columns on the screen
indicates the the actual LCD assembly is bad.
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Laptop Fan Failure The guts of a laptop are crammed into
such a small, cramped space, that the cooling fan is absolutely
critical. A replacement laptop fan and heat pipe should cost
well under $50, you may even get by with a generic fan
replacement for a few bucks, but the job is fairly involved and
differs from manufacturer to manufacturer. I don't get excited
about noisy laptop fans, I had one in my Toshiba Satellite that
got noisy within a year of my buying it and continued noisy for
the next four years without failing. On the other hand, you
don't want to wait until you get heat damage to replace the fan.
If the fan gets increasingly noisy over time or starts noisy
(and slow) then quiets down as it picks up speed, I'd replace it
at the first opportunity. Assuming you've owned the notebook for
a while, you should be familiar with how long the fan usually
takes to come on and how long it runs. If the fan never comes
on, unless you're working in a freezer, it's probably dead..
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| Hard Drive Failure
Fortunately, laptop hard drives are the one really generic
part (aside from most memory) that you don't have to worry too
much about replacing. Depending on the model, you may be able to really
upgrade to a much bigger drive on a replacement, but you
probably won't get the benefit of a faster interface on an older
notebook and the BIOS may not recognize most of the capacity, so
there's no point in spending much more than you have to. Laptop
hard drives can be extremely easy to replace or moderately
difficult. The difference lies in how they are accessed. Many
older notebooks allow you to replace the hard drive through a
single-screw access panel on the bottom of the unit, sometimes
it's right under the battery or the RAM. Other laptops require
that you crack the body open, remove the keyboard or the
motherboard (assembly varies from manufacturer to manufacturer),
really take the whole thing apart. The interface for the IDE
cable on the drives that come out easy is often fixed in place,
so the drive basically plugs in, while the drives that require
you to take the whole thing apart often make remove the
connector on a flexible (and fragile) flat cable before removing
the drive.
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Ports and Power Connector
Laptops are sometimes plagued by internal failure of the physical
connectors, like the modem or network port seems to be detached within
the case, making it tough to get a good connection, or the power
connector solder joint to the board breaks. The only way to fix these
problems is to open up the body of the laptop, determine exactly what
has broken, and do your best to restore it to the original condition,
rather than just kludging it. The problem with kludging anything in a
notebook is that the tolerances are so tight that your kludge might fail
as soon as you snap the case back together. When soldering anything on a
laptop board, use a fine tip iron and don't gamble on overheating the
board and stripping away circuitry. Use a decent solder sucker to
quickly clean up the old solder rather than fooling around with copper
wick, and if you get the feeling you're taking to long, just stop and
let it all cool down before trying again.
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Wireless Internet Connectivity
Modern laptops are all sold with built-in wireless adapters.
Some power notebooks used by corporate road warriors will have
powerful cellular adapters that connect the laptop to the
Internet via the cell phone infrastructure, but the standard
built in adapter is an IEEE 802.11b/g wireless transceiver that
allows the laptop to connect to local wireless routers and
access point within a hundred feet or so. The signal strength is
proportional to both the distance between the router and the
notebook, and the stuff inbetween, like doors, people, walls,
etc. That said, the main hardware issue you'll run into with a
wireless Internet connection is the wireless adapter in the
laptop being switched off! The vast majority of the time,
Internet connectivity problems will be due to operating system
software settings or router security settings. The easiest way
to troubleshoot whether your connectivity problem is dependent
on your local network is to take the laptop somewhere else and
try it. |
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